Cosmeceuticals: A transit state from synthetic to natural.

Cosmeceuticals are topically applied cosmetic products containing a biologically active ingredient with a pharmaceutical effect that improves, nourishes, and treats the skin appearance. The trend of cosmeceuticals began during the mid-20th century due to its potent ingredients with therapeutic effects for various skin ailments. Even though there is a great advancement in cosmetics, which shows the risk of cosmetic linked melanoma, endocrine disorders, and birth defects which was one in 1500 people during 1935 have increased to one in 75 people in 2000. Hence, as a part of reducing the harmful effect, natural ingredients were added to the formulation to give the pharmaceutical effect. Thus, natural/herbal cosmeceuticals were introduced. Due to the awareness of the side effects such as photo-toxicity, mutagenicity, irritation by these synthetic products, people started preferring herbal/natural cosmetic products. Moreover, natural cosmeceuticals were proven to be effective against various dermatological conditions as well as have fewer side effects marked the natural/herbal cosmeceuticals in the market. Unlike a drug, cosmeceutical products undergo safety, toxicity, and efficacy tests, but these are not classified under Food and Drug Administration. This review will give an insight into different natural ingredients used in natural/herbal cosmeceutical formulation and their function challenges faced during formulation, advantages of natural cosmeceuticals over regular cosmeceuticals, and regulatory aspects in India.

Using 3% retinol peeling and cosmeceuticals for the aesthetic wellness of the oncological patient after precautionary endocrine treatment: A case series.

BACKGROUND: Roughness, sagging, and skin rash are common in patients with breast cancer treated with LH-RH analog plus tamoxifen or aromatase inhibitors as adjuvant postsurgical endocrine therapy. The use of topical retinol (vitamin A) has shown to be an efficacious cosmetic treatment. AIMS: Peeling with an advanced retinol peel formulation based on 3% retinol, 4% triethyl citrate, 0.1% aminophil, bisabolol, and 1% vitamin E acetate, in a vehicle in an alcoholic solution has been successfully used to ameliorate skin appearance on subjects with photodamage and in the aged population. We aimed to verify its use during adjuvant chemotherapy. PATIENTS: Four subjects experiencing skin issues during postsurgical adjuvant therapy for their breast cancer received retinol peel at least 6 weeks after stopping their postsurgery therapy as a low invasive aesthetic medical treatment to be used both at the dermatology desk and at home. RESULTS: Retinol peel was effective, safe, and well-tolerated, improving skin brightness and firmness in all the patients, since 4 weeks after the beginning of the treatment. Patients declared to be satisfied with the treatment and their skin appearance letting them feel better for cancer recovery, too. CONCLUSION: These preliminary observations suggest that the use of an advanced retinol peel formulation might improve skin appearance in women experiencing skin damages caused by adjuvant therapy after breast cancer surgery.

Standardized Extract from Wastes of Edible Flowers and Snail Mucus Ameliorate Ultraviolet B-Induced Damage in Keratinocytes.

Several studies have highlighted the ability of snail mucus in maintaining healthy skin conditions due to its emollient, regenerative, and protective properties. In particular, mucus derived from Helix aspersa muller has already been reported to have beneficial properties such as antimicrobial activity and wound repair capacity. In order to enhance the beneficial effects of snail mucus, a formulation enriched with antioxidant compounds derived from edible flower waste (Acmella oleracea L., Centaurea cyanus L., Tagetes erecta L., Calendula officinalis L., and Moringa oleifera Lam.) was obtained. UVB damage was used as a model to investigate in vitro the cytoprotective effects of snail mucus and edible flower extract. Results demonstrated that polyphenols from the flower waste extract boosted the antioxidant activity of snail mucus, providing cytoprotective effects in keratinocytes exposed to UVB radiation. Additionally, glutathione content, reactive oxygen species (ROS), and lipid peroxidation levels were reduced following the combined treatment with snail mucus and edible flower waste extract. We demonstrated that flower waste can be considered a valid candidate for cosmeceutical applications due to its potent antioxidant activity. Thus, a new formulation of snail mucus enriched in extracts of edible flower waste could be useful to design innovative and sustainable broadband natural UV-screen cosmeceutical products.

Enhanced Cosmeceutical Potentials of the Oil from Gryllus bimaculatus de Geer by Nanoemulsions.

Purpose: This study aimed to extract the oil from Gryllus bimaculatus de Geer, evaluate its potential for cosmeceutical applications, and develop nanoemulsions to promote the cosmeceutical capabilities of the oil. Methods: G. bimaculatus oil was produced by the cold pressing method. Its fatty acid compositions were assessed by fatty acid methyl ester/gas chromatographic-mass spectrometry. The antioxidant activities of the oil were investigated in terms of radical scavengers, reducing power, and lipid peroxidation inhibition. The whitening effects were investigated through anti-tyrosinase activities, whilst the anti-aging effects were investigated through inhibition against collagenase, elastase, and hyaluronidase. The irritant effects were investigated by the hen's egg chorio-allantoic membrane test and the cytotoxicity assay in immortalized human epidermal keratinocytes and human foreskin fibroblast cells. The nanoemulsions were developed, characterized, and evaluated for their stability and cosmeceutical properties. Results: G. bimaculatus oil, rich in linoleic acid (31.08 ± 0.00%), oleic acid (30.44 ± 0.01%), palmitic acid (24.80 ± 0.01%), and stearic acid (7.61 ± 0.00%), demonstrated promising cosmeceutical properties in terms of antioxidant, anti-tyrosinase, and anti-skin ageing activities. Besides, the oil was safe since it induced no irritation or cytotoxicity. G. bimaculatus oil was successfully developed into nanoemulsions, and F1, composed of 1% w/w G. bimaculatus oil, 1.12% w/w polysorbate 80, 0.88% w/w sorbitan oleate, and 97% w/w DI water, had the smallest internal droplet size (53.8 ± 0.6 nm), the narrowest polydispersity index (0.129 ± 0.010), and a pronounced zeta potential (-28.23 ± 2.32 mV). All cosmeceutical activities of the oil were significantly enhanced after incorporation in the nanoemulsions (p < 0.001), particularly the whitening effects. Conclusion: G. bimaculatus oil nanoemulsion was an attractive cosmeceutical formulation with potent whitening effects, along with antioxidant and anti-aging properties. Therefore, nanoemulsion technology was found to be an effective strategy for improving the cosmeceutical properties of G. bimaculatus oil.

Xanthophyll-Rich Extract of Phaeodactylum tricornutum Bohlin as New Photoprotective Cosmeceutical Agent: Safety and Efficacy Assessment on In Vitro Reconstructed Human Epidermis Model.

The nutritional and health properties of algae make them perfect functional ingredients for nutraceutical and cosmeceutical applications. In this study, the Phaeodactylum tricornutum Bohlin (Phaeodactylaceae), a pleiomorphic diatom commonly found in marine ecosystems, was investigated. The in vitro culture conditions used favoured the fusiform morphotype, characterized by a high accumulation of neutral lipids, as detected by fluorescence microscopy after BODIPY staining. These data were confirmed by HPLC-DAD-APCI-MS/MS analyses carried out on the ethanolic extract (PTE), which showed a high content of xanthophylls (98.99%), and in particular of fucoxanthin (Fx, 6.67 g/100 g PTE). The antioxidant activity (ORAC, FRAP, TEAC and ß-carotene bleaching) and photostability of PTE and Fx against UVA and UVB rays were firstly evaluated by in vitro cell-free assays. After this, phototoxicity and photoprotective studies were carried out on in vitro reconstructed human epidermidis models. Results demonstrated that PTE (0.1% Fx) and 0.1% Fx, both photostable, significantly (p < 0.05) reduce oxidative and inflammatory stress markers (ROS, NO and IL-1α), as well as cytotoxicity and sunburn cells induced by UVA and UVB doses simulating the solar radiation, with an excellent safety profile. However, PTE proved to be more effective than Fx, suggesting its effective and safe use in broad-spectrum sunscreens.

Antimicrobial Peptides: Challenging Journey to the Pharmaceutical, Biomedical, and Cosmeceutical Use.

Antimicrobial peptides (AMPs), or host defence peptides, are short proteins in various life forms. Here we discuss AMPs, which may become a promising substitute or adjuvant in pharmaceutical, biomedical, and cosmeceutical uses. Their pharmacological potential has been investigated intensively, especially as antibacterial and antifungal drugs and as promising antiviral and anticancer agents. AMPs exhibit many properties, and some of these have attracted the attention of the cosmetic industry. AMPs are being developed as novel antibiotics to combat multidrug-resistant pathogens and as potential treatments for various diseases, including cancer, inflammatory disorders, and viral infections. In biomedicine, AMPs are being developed as wound-healing agents because they promote cell growth and tissue repair. The immunomodulatory effects of AMPs could be helpful in the treatment of autoimmune diseases. In the cosmeceutical industry, AMPs are being investigated as potential ingredients in skincare products due to their antioxidant properties (anti-ageing effects) and antibacterial activity, which allows the killing of bacteria that contribute to acne and other skin conditions. The promising benefits of AMPs make them a thrilling area of research, and studies are underway to overcome obstacles and fully harness their therapeutic potential. This review presents the structure, mechanisms of action, possible applications, production methods, and market for AMPs.

Cubosome-based cosmeceuticals: A breakthrough in skincare.

Nanotechnology in skin cosmetics has revolutionized robust skincare formulations, enabling the delivery of therapeutic agents to achieve the effective concentration at the targeted site of action. Lyotropic liquid crystals (LLCs) are emerging as a potential nanoparticle delivery system owing to their biocompatible and biodegradable nature. Within the space of LLCs, the structural and functional relationships of cubosomal characteristics are investigated as drug delivery vehicles for a potential application in skincare. The objective of this review is to describe the structure, preparation methods and the potential application of cubosomes for the successful delivery of cosmetic agents.

Ginkgo biloba leaves extract's cosmeceutical evaluation: a preliminary assessments on human volunteers towards achieving improved skin condition and rejuvenation.

BACKGROUND: Ginkgo biloba (GB) leaves extract is known to possess potent antioxidants and other bioactivities such as improved skin conditions and rejuvenation. OBJECTIVE: This study aimed to develop a cosmeceutical preparation to utilize the strong antioxidant potential of GB leaves as part of the skincare formulation. METHODS: Cream incorporated GB (GBC) was prepared by mixing the obtained extract with stearic acid-sodium hydroxide components in an emulsion format. The obtained GBC was characterized for GB contents, uniformity, pH, compatibility, stability, and skin's human application. RESULTS: A homogeneous, physically, and chemically stable, with pH near the skin pH and shiny cream, was obtained. The prepared cream was easy to rub and pearly in appearance. It was effective and safe during the two-week trial conducted on human volunteers according to clinical trial registry protocols. The cream scavenged free radicals in DPPH assay tests. The cream incorporated GB made the skin more spirited and tauter. Furthermore, the wrinkles were reduced and the skin was renewed vigor. CONCLUSION: The GBC worked at the topical level and provided benefits when applied daily for the trial duration. The formulation also provided visually observable anti-wrinkle effects on the skin, with visible improvements in the skin's shape and texture. The prepared cream can be used to rejuvenate the skin.

Exploring the potential of Halomonas levan and its derivatives as active ingredients in cosmeceutical and skin regenerating formulations.

Demand on natural products that contain biological ingredients mimicking growth factors and cytokines made natural polysaccharides popular in pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries. Levan is the ß-(2-6) linked, nontoxic, biocompatible, water-soluble, film former fructan polymer that has diverse applications in pharmacy and cosmeceutical industries with its moisturizing, whitening, anti-irritant, anti-aging and slimming activities. Driven by the limited reports on few structurally similar levan polymers, this study presents the first systematic investigation on the effects of structurally different extremophilic Halomonas levan polysaccharides on human skin epidermis cells. In-vitro experiments with microbially produced linear Halomonas levan (HL), its hydrolyzed, (hHL) and sulfonated (ShHL) derivatives as well as enzymatically produced branched levan (EL) revealed increased keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation (113-118 %), improved skin barrier function through induced expressions of involucrin (2.0 and 6.43 fold changes for HL and EL) and filaggrin (1.74 and 3.89 fold changes for hHL and ShHL) genes and increased type I collagen (2.63 for ShHL) and hyaluronan synthase 3 (1.41 for HL) gene expressions together with fast wound healing ability within 24 h (100 %, HL) on 2D wound models clearly showed that HL and its derivatives have high potential to be used as natural active ingredients in cosmeceutical and skin regenerating formulations.

Pharmaceutical based cosmetic serums.

The growth and demand for cosmeceuticals (cosmetic products that have medicinal or drug-like benefits) have been enhanced for the last few decades. Lately, the newly invented dosage form, i.e., the pharmaceutical-based cosmetic serum has been developed and widely employed in various non-invasive cosmetic procedures. Many pharmaceutical-based cosmetic serums contain natural active components that claim to have a medical or drug-like effect on the skin, hair, and nails, including anti-aging, anti-wrinkle, anti-acne, hydrating, moisturizing, repairing, brightening and lightening skin, anti-hair fall, anti-fungal, and nail growth effect, etc. In comparison with other pharmaceutical-related cosmetic products (creams, gels, foams, and lotions, etc.), pharmaceutical-based cosmetic serums produce more rapid and incredible effects on the skin. This chapter provides detailed knowledge about the different marketed pharmaceutical-based cosmetic serums and their several types such as facial serums, hair serums, nail serums, under the eye serum, lip serum, hand, and foot serum, respectively. Moreover, some valuable procedures have also been discussed which provide prolong effects with desired results in the minimum duration of time after the few sessions of the serum treatment.

Dermocosmetic evaluation of a nutricosmetic formulation based on Curcuma.

Endogenous and exogenous factors can alter the skin layer and appearance, determining skin aging. The extracts and isolated molecules from food matrixes can be used to formulate "healthy" antiaging cosmetics. Two different cosmetic approaches can be used to achieve the antiaging effect. It is possible to use topical products based on food extract (cosmeceutical approach) or take a food supplement and apply a topical cosmetic product based on food extract on the surface to be treated (nutricosmetic approach). This work evaluated in vivo the antiaging potential of a nutricosmetic formulation (cream + food supplement) and a cosmeceutical cream based on Curcuma. The choice of the commercial Curcuma extract to be used for experimental purposes was based on the curcuminoid content determined by an HPLC test. Curcuminoids are the bioactive compounds responsible for Curcuma's antioxidant and antiinflammatory properties. Their levels in Curcuma extracts vary according to the storage condition, variety, and pedoclimatic cultivation conditions. The Tewameter® TM300 was used to evaluate the Trans Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL), the Corneometer® CM 825 to determine the moisturizing effect, the Cutometer® to estimate the skin firmness and elasticity, the Dermascan to assess the collagen index, and the Visioface® 1000D to evaluate the wrinkles. The nutricosmetic product showed potential as moisturizing, anti-age, and anti-wrinkle action better than the cosmeceutical product alone.

LC-HR/MS Analysis of Lipophilic Extracts from Calendula arvensis (Vaill.) L. Organs: An Unexplored Source in Cosmeceuticals.

As part of a project aimed at promoting the use of Calendula arvensis (Vaill.) L. (field marigold, Asteraceae) phytocomplexes in cosmeceutical formulations, the chemical composition in apolar specialized metabolites is herein elucidated. Furthermore, the screening of the cytotoxicity of the apolar extracts was evaluated in order to underline their safety as functional ingredients for cosmetics. After dissection of Calendula organs (florets, fruits, leaves, bracts, stems, and roots), ultrasound-assisted maceration in n-hexane as an extracting solvent allowed us to obtain oil-like mixtures, whose chemical composition has been highlighted through a UHPLC-ESI-QqTOF-MS/MS approach. Twenty-nine metabolites were tentatively identified; different compounds, among which the well-known poly-unsaturated fatty acids, and oxylipins and phosphatides were detected for the first time in Calendula genus. The screening of the dose-response cytotoxicity of the apolar extracts of C. arvensis highlighted the concentration of 10 µg/mL as the most suitable for the formulation of cosmeceutical preparations. Sera enriched with leaf and fruit apolar extracts turned out to have the best activity, suggesting it can be used as a new source in skin care thanks to their higher content in fatty acids.

Potential Cosmetic Active Ingredients Derived from Marine By-Products.

The market demand for marine-based cosmetics has shown a tremendous growth rate in the last decade. Marine resources represent a promising source of novel bioactive compounds for new cosmetic ingredient development. However, concern about sustainability also becomes an issue that should be considered in developing cosmetic ingredients. The fisheries industry (e.g., fishing, farming, and processing) generates large amounts of leftovers containing valuable substances, which are potent sources of cosmeceutical ingredients. Several bioactive substances could be extracted from the marine by-product that can be utilized as a potent ingredient to develop cosmetics products. Those bioactive substances (e.g., collagen from fish waste and chitin from crustacean waste) could be utilized as anti-photoaging, anti-wrinkle, skin barrier, and hair care products. From this perspective, this review aims to approach the potential active ingredients derived from marine by-products for cosmetics and discuss the possible activity of those active ingredients in promoting human beauty. In addition, this review also covers the prospect and challenge of using marine by-products toward the emerging concept of sustainable blue cosmetics.

Rhodophyta as Potential Sources of Photoprotectants, Antiphotoaging Compounds, and Hydrogels for Cosmeceutical Application.

Seaweeds are macroscopic, multicellular, eukaryotic and photosynthetic organisms, and are a source of chemical diversity with powerful biological activities for diversified industrial applications including cosmeceuticals. Red seaweeds (Rhodophyta) are good sources of Mycosporine-like amino acids (MAA) for photoprotectant and antiphotoaging compounds. In addition, Rhodophyta are also good sources for hydrogel compounds that are used widely in the food, pharmaceutical and cosmeceutical industries as gelling agents, moisturizers or for their antiphotoaging effects. Our survey and ongoing studies revealed that the biodiversity of Indonesian Rhodophyta is rich and is a treasure trove for cosmeceutical agents including MAA and hydrogels. This study delivers valuable information for identifying potential red seaweeds in screening and searching for cosmeceutical agents.

Molecular Analysis of the Melanogenesis Inhibitory Effect of Saponins-Rich Fraction of Argania spinosa Leaves Extract.

Plant saponins are abundant and diverse natural products with a great potential for use in drug-discovery research. Here, we evaluated extracts of saponins-rich fractions of argan leaves and argan oil extraction byproducts (shell, pulp, press cake) for their effect on melanogenesis. Results show that from among the samples tested, only the saponins-rich fraction from leaves (ALS) inhibited melanin production in B16 murine melanoma (B16) cells. The mechanism of the melanogenesis inhibition was elucidated by determining the protein and mRNA expression of melanogenesis-associated enzymes tyrosinase (TYR), tyrosinase-related protein 1 (TRP1), and dopachrome tautomerase (DCT), and microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), and performing DNA microarray analysis. Results showed that 10 µg/mL ALS significantly inhibited melanogenesis in B16 cells and human epidermal melanocytes by 59% and 48%, respectively, without cytotoxicity. The effect of ALS on melanogenesis can be attributed to the decrease in TYR, TRP1, and MITF expression at the protein and mRNA levels. MITF inhibition naturally led to the downregulation of the expression of Tyr and Trp1 genes. Results of the DNA microarray analysis revealed the effect on melanogenesis-associated cAMP and Wnt signaling pathways' genes. The results of this study suggest that ALS may be used in cosmeceuticals preparations for hyperpigmentation treatment.

Ameliorative Effect of Bouea macrophylla Griffth Seed Extract Against Bacteria-Induced Acne Inflammation: in vitro study.

Currently, bioactive compounds derived from nature have been thought to be promising anti-acne substances owing to the variety of potential biological effects. This study aimed to evaluate the ameliorative effect of Bouea macrophylla Griffth seed extract against bacteria-induced acne inflammation for the first time in terms of antibacterial effects against acne-inducing bacteria, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant properties. Initially, extracting procedures were optimized and five different extracts were obtained. Considering their antibacterial activities against Cutibacterium acnes, Staphylococcus aureus, and Staphylococcus epidermidis, ethanolic and ethyl acetate fractions exerted a notable effect which were highly superior above those of polyphenol standards. Additionally, these two extracts presented outstanding antioxidant capacities in terms of DPPH and ABTS radicals scavenging effects, reducing power, and inhibitory effect on lipid peroxidation which also play a role in the exacerbation of acne inflammation. Besides, inhibition on lipid peroxidation and reducing power of ethanolic fraction were significantly (p<0.05) better than those of ethyl acetate fraction which was corresponding to their phenolic and ellagic acid contents. However, flavonoids found in ethyl acetate fraction might play an important role in its potentials. After that, the anti-inflammatory effects of the extracts were elucidated by means of inhibition on nitric oxide production from LPS-induced RAW 264.7 cell lines at which the effects of both extracts were dosedependency. Taken together, our findings have apparently proven that B. macrophylla seed extracts exerted a variety of potential properties including antioxidation, anti-acne-inducing bacteria, and anti-inflammatory effects which could serve as a promising anti-acne agent for cosmeceutical applications.

Boosting Cosmeceutical Peptides: Coupling Imidazolium-Based Ionic Liquids to Pentapeptide-4 Originates New Leads with Antimicrobial and Collagenesis-Inducing Activities.

Following our previous reports on dual-action antibacterial and collagenesis-inducing hybrid peptide constructs based on "pentapeptide-4" (PP4, with amino acid sequence KTTKS), whose N-palmitoyl derivative is the well-known cosmeceutical ingredient Matrixyl, herein we disclose novel ionic liquid/PP4 conjugates (IL-KTTKS). These conjugates present potent activity against either antibiotic-susceptible strains or multidrug resistant clinical isolates of both Gram-positive and Gram-negative bacterial species belonging to the so-called "ESKAPE" group of pathogens. Noteworthy, their antibacterial activity is preserved in simulated wound fluid, which anticipates an effective action in the setting of a real wound bed. Moreover, their collagenesis-inducing effects in vitro are comparable to or stronger than those of Matrixyl. Altogether, IL-KTTKS exert a triple antibacterial, antifungal, and collagenesis-inducing action in vitro. These findings provide solid grounds for us to advance IL-KTTKS conjugates as promising leads for future development of topical treatments for complicated skin and soft tissue infections (cSSTI). Further studies are envisaged to incorporate IL-conjugates into suitable nanoformulations, to reduce toxicity and/or improve resistance to proteolytic degradation. IMPORTANCE As life expectancy increases, diseases causing chronic wound infections become more prevalent. Diabetes, peripheral vascular diseases, and bedridden patients are often associated with non-healing wounds that become infected, resulting in high morbidity and mortality. This is exacerbated by the fact that microbes are becoming increasingly resistant to antibiotics, so efforts must converge toward finding efficient therapeutic alternatives. Recently, our team identified a new type of constructs that combine (i) peptides used in cosmetics to promote collagen formation with (ii) imidazolium-based ionic liquids, which have antimicrobial and skin penetration properties. These constructs have potent wide-spectrum antimicrobial action, including against multidrug-resistant Gram-positive and Gram-negative bacteria, and fungi. Moreover, they can boost collagen formation. Hence, this is an unprecedented class of lead molecules toward development of a new topical medicine for chronically infected wounds.

A Cosmeceutical Topical Water-in-Oil Nanoemulsion of Natural Bioactives: Design of Experiment, in vitro Characterization, and in vivo Skin Performance Against UVB Irradiation-Induced Skin Damages.

Introduction: Damage to human skin occurs either chronologically or through repetitive exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation, where collagen photodegradation leads to the formation of wrinkles and skin imperfections. Consequently, cosmeceutical products containing natural bioactives to restore or regenerate collagen have gained a remarkable attention as an ameliorative remedy. Methods: This study aimed to develop and optimize collagen-loaded water-in-oil nanoemulsion (W/O NE) through a D-optimal mixture design to achieve an ideal multifunctional nanosystem containing active constituents. Vit E was included as a constituent of the formulation for its antioxidant properties to minimize the destructive impact of UV radiation. The formulated systems were characterized in terms of their globule size, optical clarity, and viscosity. An optimized system was selected and evaluated for its physical stability, in vitro wound healing properties, and in vivo permeation and protection against UV radiation. In addition, the effect of collagen-loaded NE was compared to Vit C-loaded NE and collagen-/Vit C-loaded NEs mixture as Vit C is known to enhance collagen production within the skin. Results: The optimized NE was formulated with 25% oils (Vit E: safflower oil, 1:3), 54.635% surfactant/cosurfactant (Span 80: Kolliphor EL: Arlasolve, 1:1:1), and 20.365% water. The optimized NE loaded with either collagen or Vit C exhibited a skin-friendly appearance with boosted permeability, and improved cell viability and wound healing properties on fibroblast cell lines. Moreover, the in vivo study and histopathological investigations confirmed the efficacy of the developed system to protect the skin against UV damage. The results revealed that the effect of collagen-/Vit C-loaded NEs mixture was more pronounced, as both drugs reduced the skin damage to an extent that it was free from any detectable alterations. Conclusion: NE formulated using Vit E and containing collagen and/or Vit C could be a promising ameliorative remedy for skin protection against UVB irradiation.

Microalgae Bioactive Compounds to Topical Applications Products-A Review.

Microalgae are complex photosynthetic organisms found in marine and freshwater environments that produce valuable metabolites. Microalgae-derived metabolites have gained remarkable attention in different industrial biotechnological processes and pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries due to their multiple properties, including antioxidant, anti-aging, anti-cancer, phycoimmunomodulatory, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial activities. These properties are recognized as promising components for state-of-the-art cosmetics and cosmeceutical formulations. Efforts are being made to develop natural, non-toxic, and environmentally friendly products that replace synthetic products. This review summarizes some potential cosmeceutical applications of microalgae-derived biomolecules, their mechanisms of action, and extraction methods.

Phytochemical Profiling of the Leaf Extract of Ximenia americana var. caffra and Its Antioxidant, Antibacterial, and Antiaging Activities In Vitro and in Caenorhabditis elegans: A Cosmeceutical and Dermatological Approach.

We previously annotated the phytochemical constituents of a root extract from Ximenia americana var. caffra and highlighted its hepatoprotective and hypoglycemic properties. We here extended our study on the leaf extract and identified its phytoconstituents using HPLC-PDA-ESI-MS/MS. In addition, we explored its antioxidant, antibacterial, and antiaging activities in vitro and in an animal model, Caenorhabditis elegans. Results from HPLC-PDA-ESI-MS/MS confirmed that the leaves contain 23 secondary metabolites consisting of condensed tannins, flavonol glycosides, flavone glycosides, and flavonol diglycosides. The leaf extract demonstrated significant antioxidant activity in vitro with IC50 value of 5 µg/mL in the DPPH assay and 18.32 µg/mL in the FRAP assay. It also inhibited four enzymes (collagenase, elastase, hyaluronidase, and tyrosinase) crucially involved in skin remodeling and aging processes with comparable activities to reference drugs along with four pure secondary metabolites identified from the extract. In accordance with the in vitro result, in vivo tests using two transgenic strains of C. elegans demonstrated its ability to reverse oxidative stress. Evidence included an increased survival rate in nematodes treated with the prooxidant juglone to 68.9% compared to the 24.8% in untreated worms and a reduced accumulation of intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) in a dose-dependent manner to 77.8%. The leaf extract also reduced levels of the expression of HSP 16.2 in a dose-dependent manner to 86.4%. Nuclear localization of the transcription factor DAF-16 was up to 10 times higher in worms treated with the leaf extract than in the untreated worms. The extract also inhibited the biofilm formation of Pseudomonas aeruginosa (a pathogen in skin infections) and reduced the swimming and swarming mobilities in a dose-dependent fashion. In conclusion, leaves of X. americana are a promising candidate for preventing oxidative stress-induced conditions, including skin aging.